As could be expected from your former child star, justin bieber clothing has had many a fashion transformation through the years. He’s done quiffed hair plus a thick gold rapper’s chain. He’s posed looking buff in Calvin Klein pants. He’s experimented by using a floppy fringe as well as a suit. But although some of his efforts to toughen up are already met with derision, the most up-to-date part of the Biebvolution is really bang on the fashion money. There were ripped jeans. There has been oversized hoodies, and oversized Nirvana T-shirts together with the sleeves hacked off. Crucially, we have seen a great deal of layering – and plenty of raw edges.
Not all people gets it (“Justin Bieber wears bizarre frayed denim top,” was the Mirror’s reaction to his Marques’Almeida moment in the Radio 1 Teen awards earlier this month) although the latest incarnation of Bieber ties in a mood that may be sweeping through menswear – and may be arriving in your wardrobe soon.
In a nutshell: scruffiness is hot. Glitzy has gone out. Deliberately undone and messy is in. Think a Wolfgang Tillmans portrait meets 1990s grunge with a tracksuit top as well as a pierced ear thrown in for good measure. You can dub it a hot mess for males, but the one thing you would never think of it is hipster – manicured beards should be ditched for haphazard facial hair immediately.
Undoubtedly, Marques’Almeida, the label justin bieber clothing wore on the teen awards, has become integral for the surge in demand for denim as well as jeans that happen to be hacked off and left raw. Basically, if it’s the sort of look which enables parents eyeroll and say: “You bought that? Do want me to put proper hems on those?”, this has legs. Elsewhere in the catwalk, for his spring/summer 2016 menswear show, Raf Simons sent out herringbone trousers which had been roughly shut down in the anklebone, sat above some Stan Smiths. His shrunken tank knits had a kind of moth-eaten, make-do-and-mend thing happening; in close proximity, the holes during these knits are layered spanning a contrast fabric layer, and, actually, are far nicer than I’ve made them sound.
Justin Bieber’s winter 2015 i-D magazine cover.
This new mood – a sort of anti-luxury luxury – could there be in the glossy style magazines, too, although glossy is definitely the wrong word. Bieber’s recent cover shoot for i-D magazine is a great reference point. It sees the pop star stripped back – bleached hair, a smattering of stubble, tattoos. Shot by Alasdair McLellan, one of the most in-demand photographers in vogue, these pictures possess a typical masculine rawness. Inside a short video to accompany this shoot, you can also see acne on his forehead. Imagine. Meanwhile, Tillmans has shot typically lo-fi stories for the latest Arena Homme including one called How Fragile could this be Man?, while the Russian designer and photographer Gosha Rubchinskiy has photographed ballet dancer Sergei Polunin for Man About Town. The second sees the shaven-headed ballet dancer wearing retro sportswear with eye makeup and a couple of days amount of facial hair.
Haute scruff have also been all over just about the most talked-about moments of your spring/summer 2016 season: the Vetements show, which had been located in a Chinese restaurant variously referred to as “tacky” (Dazed & Confused), “cheap and cheerful” (Vogue Runway) and “kitschy” (Business of Fashion) and featured clothes that were all deconstructed awkwardness and models who looked like they had just presented of bed. A lot of them weren’t actually models: Rubchinskiy appeared, wearing a DHL T-shirt (yes, as with the parcel delivery service); including the show stylist, Lotta Volkova, took a start up the catwalk, closing proceedings in thigh-high boots plus a raw-edged denim miniskirt. The Vetements influence in vogue is merely set to go on: after the show, one of Paris’s most historic fashion houses, Balenciaga, announced that its lead designer, Demna Gvasalia, would be to become its new creative director.
Rubchinskiy is an additional in the buzziest names in menswear; since 2012 his label continues to be supported by Comme des Garçons. His clothes think that a nerdy take on Soviet sportswear – think a shellsuit top or 1980s patterned jumper. Snazzy, but not.
In reality, if all else fails, the key to this look is really a vintage-style tracksuit top. Gosha or AMI (next season) for males. Chloe (next season) or Bottega Veneta resort for girls (see British Vogue’s December issue, in which several tracktops are featured as part of the “new downtown silhouette”). Basically, it’s all a bit Damon Albarn circa 1996. Why does this humble zip-up sum up this new anti-luxury luxury? Firstly, mainly because it ticks the 1990s box – and also the dexqpky16 has become the decade du jour. Secondly, it’s the contrary of all justin bieber t shirt that has been the headline news in menswear in the past couple of years. Not only that, it’s an easy task to chuck on, doesn’t appear to be you’ve made an endeavor but suggests you know what’s going on. Which feels scruffy and modern indeed.
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